how hard is it to build a guitar neck

Your decal: First up, apply your logo or decal (duh). If you’re building a vintage design, you’ll see neck bolts on the neck block that never appeared in the old days. Heck, tons of guitars come off the line with neck shims from the factory. Unfortunately I had not considered how the neck length would change as I planed down the headstock to the desired thickness and so I had more waste than I would have liked, but thankfully I still had enough to complete my neck. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. If you plan on painting and applying a finish to your instrument yourself, ReRanch has all the supplies and tips you’ll need to do it right. Otherwise, bookmark these links below. Then I routed a slot  for the truss rod. You could easily use hand-tightened wingnuts if you didn’t object to the look from inside the soundhole. This allows the most energy possible to be transferred down the strings through the bridge and into the soundboard. We got a great set of pickups courtesy of the amazing Jason Lollar [see figure 11], and we needed to only consult out wiring chart (which you can totally grab for free from the Seymour Duncan website) to figure out where our leads and ground wires were supposed to go. This version has the “bolts” inset into the heel. googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1565462576317-0'); You’ll be taking the neck on and off the body many times, and it’s easy to reach in and spin a wingnut. Building the neck wasn’t the first thing that I did, I actually cut out a full sized paper template of the body and then built a guitar work board as recommended by Natelson and Cumpiano, but I decided to group that stuff in with the next section so I’ll talk about building the neck … And luckily, Warmoth’s custom neck builder allowed us to do all of this in about 2 minutes. We soldered the bridge pickup’s hot lead to the right lug, too, and grounded that to the back of a pot, and the simply added a ground wire from the back of a pot through the body to the underside of our tailpiece. I used a 3/16″ plunge bit so I needed to widen the slot slightly, to do that I took the advice of Natelson and Cumpiano and added strips of masking tape onto the router guide until I got the truss rod wrapped with packing tape to fit nice and snug into the slot. Maple is often used for electric guitars but not usually on acoustics as it is heavier than Mahogany (though there are a couple of acoustics I’ve seen using maple for the neck). Read this. First, it made the project feel real, to see that logo staring back at us, like it was a real guitar all of the sudden and not some generic blank. It doesn’t really influence the sound of the guitar directly but it can support it by not getting in the way! I used a strip of spruce to fill that gap. [see figure 7] We recommend using the reverse setting on your drill with the proper sized pilot drill bit in (we have a chart below for different wood screw sizes), and SLOWLY make a small divot in reverse mode on your Sharpie mark. For the partscaster build on a micro budget, GFS has pickups, bodies, necks and hardware at ultra-low prices. Then put the drill in forward, and go straight down the depth of the hole you desire. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. The final appearance of a bolt-on neck on an acoustic guitar will be identical to a traditional dovetail neck unless you look inside the soundhole to see the nuts or bolts in place. Allow us to be that idiot for you! Alas, time and money are typically an object for most, which is why the custom guitar route is oftentimes out of reach for most musicians. We’re assuming you want a kick-ass custom guitar, not an apprenticeship as a luthier. There’s no right or wrong way to assemble YOUR guitar. Required fields are marked *. Pro (well, amateur) tip: A sturdy ironing board makes a great makeshift work station if you don’t have a decent garage! Bob Taylor explains his bolt-on neck in this video. In particular, of course, we are looking at acoustic guitar necks. Factor in all that time sanding and buffing, too, and you can see how our lazy butts decided to skip this one altogether. 2. The most significant advantage by far is the ease in adjusting the neck angle in the future. So which woods satisfy all of the above requirements? To find out how deep you will have to rout the pocket measure the total thickness of the heal of the neck. Set Neck vs. Bolt-On Neck Most guitar kits will come as either a bolt-on or set neck. Let us know what you think in the comments below or drop a line on the Performer Magazine Facebook page or on Twitter @Performermag. I would be remiss to not mention that Bob Taylor at Tayler guitars has been the manufacturer to pioneer bolt-on necks for acoustic guitars. We give them a lot of love for a reason. The finished cutout is shown below. Are You Ready To Seek Investors For Your Music? We used a 1 degree full pocket shim from StewMac; they’re inexpensive and covering the entire neck pocket will reduce the chances of any warping or ski-jump neck scenarios a few years down the line. There ain’t no glue, at least not around the neck heel. Secondly, the neck houses the fretboard which is what the guitarist will be most focused on whilst playing and is the most important aspect for playability of the guitar. Voila! Your email address will not be published. It’s like cute cat videos for musicians. Commercially made bolt-on acoustic necks, like you’ll get from suppliers like stewmac.com or lmii.com, will be rough-shaped with either two bolts that mate to the neck block, or two nuts inset in the heel with bolts that go through the neck block.

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